Glossary

ASTM - Advancing Standards Transforming Markets is the organization that sets technical standards across various industries. These ensure quality and safety.

ASTM F2413-24 - Standard Specification for performance requirements for protective (safety) toe cap footwear.

Asymmetrical Heel Counter - The heel counter found on HD models. It is sewn past where the vamp meets the upper.

Backstay - The strip of leather above the heel counter that follows through to the top of the upper. This piece of leather is used as an additional stabilizer and connects the two halves of the upper.

Celastic - A celastic toe is a structured, rigid toe box made from a fiber material soaked in solvent (like acetone) that hardens upon drying. This is not safety rated.

Counter - The back section of leather covering your heel from the bottom of your foot, up to your Achilles Tendon. It is attached over the vamp on the sides. The shape of the heel counter is meant to cup the back of your heel and reduce heel slippage as you walk.

Edge Color - The color that the midsole is dyed during the bottoming process. This will show on the outside of both the midsole and heel stack.

Gusset - The flexible patch of leather underneath the laces. It is usually folded over once for full coverage of the shin area.The tongue cushions the bony top part of your foot and distributes pressure from laces.

Insole - The insole is the part of the boot that touches your actual foot. It is a layer of leather that molds to the shape of your foot.

Kilites (False Tongue) - A False Tongue is a piece of leather that is laced into the boot to guard and protect the gusset. They put an additional layer between the laces and the gusset, protecting the boot from dirt, dust and other debris that accumulate on the laces.

Lace To Toe - A footwear design where the lacing extends down the vamp, ending near the toes rather than high on the instep.

Last - The mold on which the leather is stretched and formed to create the shape of the boot. There are many different lasts, and there are different lasts for every size and shape.

Lead Time - Total length of time between order placement and project completion.

Logger Eye - A larger eyelet at the top of a boot. Typically used for an easier lacing experience.

Midsole - A firm, durable layer of leather situated between the insole and outsole. It provides structural support, arch stiffening and over time, molds to the foot for a customized fit.

Mismates - Two different sized boots within the same pair. For example the right boot could be a 10D while the left boot is a 9.5E. Mismates are not eligible for return or refund under any circumstances other than factory defect.

Padded Gusset - The gusset found on HD boots, also a configurable option on Build Your Own models.

Patina - Natural aging process where the material develops a unique sheen, darker color, and softer texture over time due to daily use, oils, sunlight, and friction.

Pull Up - When leather is stretched or bent, the waxy finish causes lighter colors from beneath the surface to "pull up," creating desirable variations in the coloring.

Relief Cut - A notch made in the leather at the ankle to reduce internal stress and allow for further flexibility.

Shank - The shank is located between the heel and ball of your foot. It consists of two pieces of leather, stacked on top of each other to create the arch support.

Sock Liner - The thin, top layer of leather in the footbed.

Stitchdown Construction - The style of stitching that attaches the vamp to the outsole.

Tannery - A specialized factory or workplace where raw animal hides and skins are processed, treated, and converted into leather.

Toe Cap - A strip of leather covering the vamp over your toe. This is often a stylistic accent, and can come in many formations.

Upper - The section of leather from the ankle up. The boot is created using 4 pieces in total. These parts are connected together by the backstay.

Vamp - The vamp is the lower part of the boot, it goes up over your toe to the instep, and around both sides of your foot. It is ideally cut from one piece of leather. It comes together in a few steps. This process is called lasting. The vamp leather is pulled back over the shoe last and nailed, it’s sculpted and dried, and then slightly turned out at the welt area.

Veg Tan - Natural, traditional method of tanning animal hides using organic tannins derived from plant sources like tree bark, leaves, and roots.